London Fashion Week AW14 | Mary Katrantzou
London based, Greek born designer Mary Katrantzou is always a hot ticket at London Fashion Week. I’ve had the pleasure of meeting Mary twice now and she is one of my all time favourites. I covet her prints every season and I love how she designs for the woman and her body, whatever her size.
So I was eagerly awaiting the Autumn/Winter collection from British Fashion Awards, 2011 Emerging Talent award winner. Mary kept us hanging on for thirty minutes but it is worth the wait. I was watching online this season with the livestream and it’s rather interesting to see my tweets on the #marykatrantzoulive twitter feed and then see the still shots of the collection. As my initial thoughts of the collection were not really in tune with the detail that came out in the images.
That is the wonder of Mary Katrantzou. Remember the SS13 collection featuring dollar bills and postage stamps? – that only on close inspection did we spot the ingenious prints and embedded motifs. Well yet again Mary wowed us. My first thoughts was of a very Russian, glamourous feel with a slight hint of Aztec past.
“Russian glamour meets Aztec? Free flowing graceful prints at @MaryKatrantzou floor length through to gorgeous knee length dresses #lfw”
In reality there were a lot of ancient Greek symbols, representing Mary’s heritage and many everyday signs embellished over the pieces. Little heads wearing headphones, mini radios and scout badges! Detailing within brocade dresses were road signs, company insignia, a woven web of signs.. what is Mary trying to tell us?
“Less print this season from @MaryKatrantzou more about embellishment for detail #lfw #marykatrantzoulive”
Yes this season Mary left the print at home. It was all about the little details. It was like a step change for the designer, a move away from the bold prints of the past to a subtle, very feminine and intricately constructed collection.
“Love how Mary breaks from the #AW14 trend of the mid length. It’s either mini skirt or floor length for her! #lfw #marykatrantzoulive”
This season we’ve seen the mid-calf skirt length firmly trending across the catwalk shows. Even in the outerwear and coats. But what I loved was how Mary Katrantzou side-stepped this. There were amazingly stunning floor length pleated dress in deep reds, through to taupes, golds, navy blue and silvers.
Beautifully elegant evening gowns that would have looked fabulous on the red carpet the following night at the BAFTA’s. Followed by particularly short, girly skater dresses, embellished to the max.
“Oh how I want a metallic jacquard @MaryKatrantzou peg leg suit for the boardroom! #lfw #marykatrantzoulive”
For Autumn/Winter 14, Mary Katrantzou made a statement with stunning jacquard suits in a range of metallics. Boyfriend blazer jackets with peg leg trousers. Wow the boardroom with this suit next season and cause some office gossip for all the right reasons.
My closing thoughts… a very grown up collection from an excelling designer. Mary’s maturity in the British fashion industry, even at her tender age is shining through. This really was the next level, each season she outdoes our existing expectations.
All images courtesy of Catwalking.com via the British Fashion Council
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