The genre of knitwear is something we often associate with autumnal days and layering outfits or chunky winterwear to keep us warm. However, knitwear can be for spring/summer and can be very on trend and sexy.

Many up and coming designers now have a focus on knitwear, such as Lalla Wandavi and Timothy James Andrews. One designer who is a cut above the rest is Phoebe Thirlwall, a Fashion Knitwear graduate of Nottingham Trent University, who is now trying to establish herself in the knitwear design industry.

Phoebe Thirlwall – Knitwear Designer

Phoebe’s final collection for her graduation was a real one-off that is both complex but simple in its nature. Talking of her inspiration Phoebe says, “I didn’t know what it was going to look like until about two days before it was finished. I was inspired by skin for this collection. I looked at cells and the elasticity of skin to create a collection of body-conscious dresses and tops.”. Phoebe Thirlwall’s final collection was shown at the 2010 Graduate Fashion Week in June at London’s Earls Court and has now been sent over to Shanghai for the Spin Expo this September.

Steps into the Industry

Phoebe has always been interested in clothes because of the way they allow the wearer to display something beautiful “like a beautiful piece of fabric, print or something with a gorgeous drape. I love clothes that make you feel amazing”. Phoebe took a course in knitwear design because of the freedom to knit the fabric yourself so it is completely an individual creation.

Phoebe Thirlwall - Up & Coming Knitwear Designer

The Graduate Collection

Phoebe Thirlwall’s Graduate Collection was made mostly from silks and bamboos. Her yarns came from various places and sources. The colours are very on trend for this A/W with camel, nudes and tobac hues. The collection features soft but well structured pieces that are individual and eye catching. This really lends to the A/W trend of minimalism that we have seen on the catwalks of London and Paris.

Phoebe Thirlwall's Graduate Collection

Phoebe admits that the collection wasn’t really trend driven, rather it was created from fabric that she thought was beautiful to the eye. Having said that, Phoebe believes that everything is trend driven even if you do not think that it is.

“My silhouettes were influenced my Armarni and Sportmax, because I love clothes that have a slightly sport-luxe feel to them. I personally predict trends from the past. Nothing is ever new and completely unseen. it is always a take on something that has been done before in some way. you can see the patterns from looking back. also, there is often a natural progression through styles.”

Phoebe Thirwall’s knitwear design process is difficult to describe. The visual appearance, structure and technical properties of knitted fabric is subtle and complex and for the consumer both absorbing and fascinating.

Phoebe Thirlwall - Graduate Collection

Phoebe received rave reviews for her collection at Graduate Fashion Week including from Nina Joyce of Amelias Magazine;

“Phoebe Thirlwall’s beautiful knitwear dresses, inspired by the intricacies of the skin, show a level of workmanship that is breathtaking under the lights of the catwalk. Each ribbed layer clings to the models with hundreds of different levels working together. Her hard work has clearly not gone unnoticed as her work was also photographed by renowned artist Rankin, a stunning portrait duly displayed in grand terms at Earl’s Court.”

Phoebe Thirlwall – the next steps..

“I would love to have my own label maybe one day, I want a job designing for someone else in an established company because I want the experience. I love designing, but am very happy to design to someone else’s specifications.”   Phoebe is looking for the opportunity to practise her design and knitwear skills and to develop her understanding of the fashion industry and her position within it. Phoebe’s collection can be viewed on her website.